Remember 10 or so years ago when a Sacramento-based taco shop blew into Redding? The one with the slogan, “Sometimes you just gotta have a real taco”? Well, Femme de Joie remembers; she remembers going into the one on Hartnell and experiencing a taco with a side of sleaze and sass from the staff … It was memories of that place that kept her driving past that same little restaurant on Hartnell long after Jimboy’s packed up their tents and stole off into the night.
Not so long ago, Amico del Signore asked if she’d ever eaten at Taco Barn, now the occupant at 66 Hartnell. M. de Joie filled him in on her tale of woe and grease, to which he replied that Taco Barn was really pretty good and she should try it. So the next time she was in the neighborhood, she did. He was right: it’s pretty good. Order at the counter and wait – it won’t take more than a few minutes – and then help yourself to salsa, limes and hot carrots.
Fish tacos ($8.99) were terrific. Deep-fried filets were not at all greasy or “fishy” tasting – though they had plenty of flavor – and were complimented with threads of cabbage and pico de gallo. These were some of the best Femme de Joie has tried locally.
Taco salad ($5.99) was a light lunch plate with shards of beef on a large green salad. This wasn’t weighted down with a lot of sour cream or chips, so it was satisfying without being soporific. There are tastier and more flamboyant versions out there, but M. de Joie certainly wouldn’t send this one back to the kitchen, and the portion size seemed right for the price.
A delicious and freshly-made California burrito ($5.99, with a side of rice and beans, $2.99) is packed with niblets of slightly salty but crunchy crisp-fried carne asada, guacamole, cheese, tomatoes and whatever else is lying around the kitchen. This is tremendous value for money and will definitely fill you up; it might even be competition for the burritos served at Burrito Bandito, and that is saying something.
The chile rellano on this combination plate ($8.99) had a light puffy coating and was made with a fresh green poblano chile. Its partner, a cheese enchilada, was tasty but noticeably salty, and a puddle of oil oozed out beneath both the rellano and enchilada.
Al pastor is kernels of pork tossed in ground chiles and other spices, then pan-roasted to crispness and served with cool contrasting flavors like guacamole. Here, an al pastor burrito ($8.99 with rice and beans) was properly spicy and bursting with chili flavor, though again a bit salty and oily.
Those rice and beans, by the way, are above-average for fast-food Mexican – not salty or reheated-tasting, and without that canned flavor you sometimes (often, even) find in this kind of restaurant.
Though she passed it by for who knows however many years, M. de Joie now is a fan of Taco Barn. It’s not elegant – those plastic plates squeak under the draw of a plastic fork – but the food is freshly prepared and mostly pretty tasty (though occasionally there’s a heavy hand with the salt and oil), as well as good value for money. Next time you’re pawing through those claustrophobic racks at Book County or picking up some grow lights & hydroponic supplies across Hartnell for your geraniums and feeling a bit peckish, stop in.
Taco Barn, 66 Hartnell Avenue, Redding, CA 96002. (530) 221-6265, and 2727 Ventura Street, Anderson, CA 96007 (530) 365-1812. Open Monday- Saturday 7:00 AM- 10:00 PM (dining room to 9:45 PM), Sunday 8:30 AM-9:00 PM (summer, March-November). Winter hours 7:30 – 9:00 PM (dining room to 8:45), Sunday 8:30 AM-9:00 PM (December-February). Cash, cards, no checks. Beer. Drive-though; loads of parking. Vegetarian and vegan selections.
Femme de Joie’s first culinary masterpiece was at age 4, when she made the perfect fried bologna sandwich on white bread. Since then she has dined on horse Bourguignon in France, stir-fried eel in London, and mystery meat in her college cafeteria, but firmly draws the line at eating rattlesnake, peppermint and Hamburger Helper. She lives in Shasta County at her country estate, Butterscotch Acres West. She is nearly always hungry. Visit MenuPlease for more or send her an email at femmedejoiefood@yahoo.com.
A News Cafe, founded in Shasta County by Redding, CA journalist Doni Greenberg, is the place for people craving local Northern California news, commentary, food, arts and entertainment. Views and opinions expressed here are not necessarily those of anewscafe.com.