Culinarily Yours: Cabbage to the Rescue

Chef Husband: “I picked up some corned beef to make Reubens. Do we have any sauerkraut in the fridge?”

Mrs. Chef: “No, but we have cabbage and I can make a quick kraut!”

After a year of learning at the side of my skilled and experienced husband, I can absolutely say my confidence has doubled, no, tripled, no, exponentially increased. Let’s just say, I can honestly admit that I think differently, move differently and communicate differently in the kitchen (and to be honest, it has overflowed into greater communication in our relationship…BONUS!).

I no longer have hesitation in cooking without a recipe. I may glance at one for suggestions or ideas, but now I can take what “mystery box” ingredients I have available (similar to an episode of Chopped) and work comfortably toward a successful dish. I still use recipes occasionally, but mostly for baking, where specific measurements can make or break the outcome.

In the case of the sauerkraut, a true sauerkraut is fermented for days in a salt brine, but I only had an hour until we wanted to have lunch. Hence a quick kraut, which is quite similar to a quick pickle application. I did “glance” at a quick sauerkraut recipe online, but from there I went on my instincts to grab ingredients and adjust the flavors.

I had on hand fresh cloves of garlic, yellow onion, a large head of green cabbage, a friend’s homemade cider vinegar (made from her locally grown apples), distilled white vinegar, coriander seed, kosher salt and sugar.

If I gave you those ingredients, what would you do?

Here’s what I did. First, mise en place. I thinly sliced a half dozen peeled garlic cloves, half of a yellow onion, and about a third of the cabbage. I had the rest of the ingredients close at hand. Over medium-high heat, I brought a drizzle of olive oil up to temp and sauteed the garlic for a minute, then added onion and sauteed until translucent, then added the cabbage and tossed. I added some of the mild apple cider vinegar (let’s say a cup), a generous pour of distilled white vinegar, then seasoned with a sprinkle of the coriander seeds. I added about a tablespoon of kosher salt and a heavy dusting of granulated sugar to balance and calm the acid from the vinegar and the sulfuric nature of the cabbage. I couldn’t tell you the measurements exactly, because I was going on intuition and taste, rather than specific measurements. Then I simply covered it, lowered the heat and let the cabbage mixture simmer for about 1/2 an hour until tender. That’s it. Pretty easy.

Upon Chef Husband’s return home, he gave an impressive “thumbs up” to my kraut. He was then on point to handle the rest of the ingredients for our afternoon Reuben excursion. He brought the kraut back up to temp and drained it, then loaded it up on top of grilled sourdough, with corned beef and melted mozzarella cheese along with a generous douse of Thousand Island-ish Dressing (Chef Husband doctored up some Ranch Dressing we had on hand). For the purists, yes, Reuben sandwiches are normally prepared on dark rye bread, but we prefer sourdough.

Sauerkraut is typically a shunned condiment by many, especially the store-bought, out-of-the-jar type. The strange color alone can be a bit foreboding. But in this instance, fresh proves to be best. My sister-in-law came by and professed she has never liked sauerkraut, but actually sat and ate several spoonfuls of the fresh quick kraut.

Now, because I wasn’t following an exact recipe, I may not be able to recreate this specific sauerkraut again. But that’s OK. Each adventure in the kitchen is an opportunity to try something fun and new. Chef Husband confesses that he often doesn’t make the same thing twice. Confident cooking is simply knowing how to work with individual ingredients and improvising with what you have available at the time…maybe next time I have cabbage on hand, I’ll try making quick kimchi. Who knows?

Until next time…

Culinarily Yours,
Mrs. Chef (Christa)

Christa DeMercurio
Instead of a New Year’s resolution, Christa DeMercurio asked her chef husband to be her tutor/mentor/sage (not the herb) for the 2018 year, teaching her his tips, tricks and wisdom in the culinary department. She figured that after over a decade together, their bakers dozen year should be a fun journey of cooking. Her husband, Cal DeMercurio, has been in the food service business since, well, forever (40-ish years). When it comes to the restaurant life, she's been more comfortable in the Back Office and sometimes Front of the House, but never really ventured into the professional kitchen. She's obtained a few skills by observing her husband over the years and then experimenting here and there at home. Now she's ready to take her apprenticeship to the next level. You can read her blog, Culinarily Yours, here.
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4 Responses

  1. Avatar Beverly Stafford says:

    Ummm, sounds good. We’ve purchased kraut at the Saturday Farmer Market. I think the “chef” is from Mt. Shasta. An altogether different animal from store-bought.

  2. Avatar Bruce Vojtecky says:

    Culinary speaking, Cadbury is hiring chocolate tasters for $14 an hour. Of course the jobs are in England.

  3. Steven Towers Steven Towers says:

    I’ve meant to get into pickling—my daughter, a Food Science major from UC Davis does it professionally in the Bay Area—but haven’t yet. I’m not all that inspired to try sauerkraut because that Farmer’s Market guy Beverly mentioned makes absolutely amazing kraut. (Side-note: my daughter is horrified when we heat fermented sauerkraut. It “kills” the kraut.)

    Christa asks, “If I gave you those ingredients, what would you do?” Maybe it’s a rhetorical question, but I’d be happy to follow her directions to a “t”, with one minor change: I’d sauté the onions first until translucent, then throw in the garlic for a minute—just long enough to release the flavor. But I’ll add that in the picture of the fork-full of quick slaw, the garlic doesn’t look one bit overdone.

  4. Joanne Snyder Joanne Snyder says:

    I can’t wait to try this. I love sauerkraut. I love what the vendor at the Farmer’s Market sells, but I’ve always wanted to make my own. Thank you so much Christa!