Fava Beans, By Fred de Picciotto: The Conceptual Cook

It is curious how the laws of chaos sometimes catapult a relatively obscure entity into the limelight. Such was the case when Jody Foster, who played a fledgling FBI agent, interviewed the infamous Hannibal Lecter in the movie “Silence of the Lambs.”

After asking him a question he replied, “A census taker once tried to test me. I ate his liver with some fava beans and a nice Chianti.” Hannibal then engaged in a lip-smacking routine which, to this day, still sends shivers down my spine. So now, when the shrink asks me to say the first thing that comes to mind and he says, “Silence of the Lambs,” guess what I say . . .

The fava bean (also known as broad bean, faba bean, horse bean, field bean and tic bean) is the only Old-World bean. All other beans are originally from South America (probably Peru) and were not available in Europe until explorers brought them back post-Columbus. Thus, when beans are mentioned in the Bible (2 Samuel 17, and the recipe for bread in Ezekiel, for example) the reference is to the fava, which was (and still is) grown extensively throughout the Middle East.

Interestingly, the most prevalent inherited human enzyme deficiency also occurs almost exclusively in peoples of the Mediterranean, so favism, as the disease has come to be known, occurs when someone who is deficient in the enzyme eats fava beans, and is quite common in the region (“I really shouldn’t have had that second falafel at the wedding…”).

Legend has it that Pythagoras succumbed to favism when he was chased by Roman soldiers into a field of the flowering plants. (Yes, susceptible individuals can die as a result of breathing the pollen.)

All right, now that we know some bad things about fava beans, do I have anything good to say? I absolutely love them, both fresh and dried. Actually, they have five distinct edible stages:

1. The leaf of the plant can be ground into pesto. It tastes like (you guessed it) fava beans.

2. In the very early stage the entire pod and its contents are edible, much like snow peas.

3. When the pod is still smallish, but not quite edible, the beans can be harvested and eaten without peeling (read on).

4. Later, when the pod and beans are quite large, you’ll have to peel each bean of its transparent outer membrane (but it’s well worth it). This is the stage you’re likely to find in the market, when you’re lucky enough find them fresh).

5. Finally, when the beans dry out they’re packaged and sold whole or ground (Bob’s Red Mill sells them online: http://www.bobsredmill.com/catalog/).

Fava beans seem to make a good winter crop in Redding. I say seem to because mine are doing well – so far. Having survived several frosts, they are now flowering. I’m hoping for my first harvest in a month or so.

The following recipe was Easter dinner, based upon Sicilian traditions. Oranges and olives are a classic Sicilian combo, as are fava beans and artichokes. In Sicily this dish would more likely be prepared using a whole baby lamb or kid. The shoulder (a highly underrated cut) cooks for 7 hours and comes out incredibly tender and flavorful.

Once the lamb is in the oven you’ll have several hours to simply sit around and soak up all the compliments on the wonderful aroma wafting out of your kitchen. Remember to soak the beans the night before.

Printer-friendly recipe

Lamb with oranges and olives

8 servings

For the lamb:

For the casserole’s top crust:

For the fava bean puree:

For the artichoke hearts:

Stab the lamb all over with a paring knife and filled the slits with slivers of garlic. Place the meat in a large heavy casserole. Rub all over with olive oil (extra virgin for everything, thank you).

Salt it generously (after all, it’s more than 10 pounds of meat; 2- 3 teaspoons ought to do it). And while we’re on the subject, only use kosher or sea salt. (NEVER use table salt or any salt that contains anti-caking agent; throw it out and don’t admit that you ever owned that acrid abomination!)

Wash well and quarter the oranges and add them to the pot. I used Mineolas from Costco – they had beautiful skins and very few seeds.

Break up the peeled tomatoes with your hands and add them to the pot, along with the wine. Grind the black pepper over everything and add the rosemary. Seal the lid on the casserole with dough made from the flour and water. Place in a 290-degree oven (hopefully, you are able to dial in a temperature) for 7 hours.

Fava bean puree:Soak 1½ pounds dried fava beans overnight. The next day boil them in fresh water until they are very soft (30 to 45 minutes). Place them in a blender (you’ll probably have to do this in batches) with the garlic, cayenne, salt to taste, and enough of the cooking liquid to make a soupy puree (we want a puddle on the plate, not a pile).

Artichokes:Prepare the artichokes so you wind up with only the hearts, quartered. Place them in a large sauté pan with ¼ cup olive oil, 1 cup white wine, and salt to taste. Cover and cook on medium heat until they are perfectly tender.

When the lamb is done remove it from the pan and drain off the considerable quantity of fat. Add 1 cup of dry-cured black olives and cook them in the sauce for 1 – 2 minutes.

Plating:Place a generous puddle of fava puree on a warmed plate (lamb fat congeals at a rather high temperature, so be sure to serve all lamb dishes on thoroughly warmed plates). Place a piece of the braised lamb (which should come apart easily, using 2 spoons) on the puree. Place some of the sauce over the lamb, including orange wedges and olives. Place 3 – 4 artichoke pieces around the perimeter. Garnish with freshly grated orange zest.

Wine:While lamb is traditionally served with Cabernet Sauvignon, I found this dish went beautifully with a Gallo Family Estate Pinot Noir. We also tried a Trefethen Riesling (believe it or not) and it nicely complemented the fruitiness of the sauce.

Fred de Picciotto has been an avid cook for more than 30 years. In his spare time he develops software and practices medicine.

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