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Last Call for Eggnog

eggnog

Note to self: After New Year’s Day, absolutely no more eggnog. It’s too rich and fattening. It’s pure liquid indulgence, that’s what it is.

I wouldn’t go so far as to call eggnog evil, but if it’s not, why do I feel so guilty whenever I drink it?

So many questions.

What the hey. We have a few days left before the year’s over.

Here’s the eggnog I’ve spent my life perfecting. This eggnog recipe is in response to Darcie’s request (via Jeff, her son) in the comments section.

First, my recipe tempers the eggs, which makes it safe for everyone to drink. The trick is to to kill any potential bacteria by raising the eggnog temperature to between 140 and 160 degrees.

Speaking of safe, I never add alcohol to my eggnog batches. I’m a free-choice cook: To spike or not spike, that is the question. The answer is a matter of preference. Personally, I like a little white rum or a splash of brandy in my eggnog. Just a little. Topped with some nutmeg, grated with my antique nutmeg grater, a gift from my father many years ago.

But I digress. My eggnog recipe is different from most eggnog recipes in other ways.

First, I use mostly whole eggs, which differs from the majority of recipes that only use the yolks. This yolk-only situation strikes me as odd since everything I’ve read says yolks are the part of the egg where, if there’s going to be trouble, yolks will be to blame.

Conversely, of those recipes that do include egg whites, almost every time they’re separated from the yolks, and then beaten and added separately.

This doesn’t do a thing for me. Beaten, foamy egg whites in my eggnog always grosses me out. Ditto with slimey white eggy parts.

So I use all the egg, plus some extra yolks for added creaminess. From then on, my eggnog starts as a thin, cooked custard, which, as I mentioned above, reduces the risk of potential eggnog injury. (I believe salmonella is what we’re trying to avoid here.)

Also, by heating the mixture, it’s thickened. This part is tricky. I hate to scare you, but if you heat the mixture too fast or too hot, you’ll have yourself a pot of curdled eggs. Most icky and totally undrinkable.

Oh, one more thing about the eggs. Those 18-egg cartons are perfect for this recipe. (Save the egg whites for something else: Royal frosting or angel food cake or for extra breakfast protein.)

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The result is an eggnog that gets such raves that I often give it as gifts. Old-fashioned milk bottles make the cutest and most authentic eggnog gift containers, but I’ve also used former olive oil bottles, clear wine bottles and those cool Italian lemonade bottles with the wire-and-glass stoppers.

Oh sure, we could make this eggnog less fattening by using non-fat milk, and maybe even use that weird non-fat half-and-half.

But you know and I know that altered eggnog wouldn’t taste that great.

We can swear off eggnog after 2008. Until then, nog on.

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Doni’s Eggnog for a Crowd

1 gallon whole milk
13 large eggs
5 egg yolks
2 cups granulated sugar
1/4 teaspoon salt
3 teaspoons freshly grated nutmeg
2 tablespoons vanilla
1 quart half-and-half

In a large pot over medium temperature, heat the milk until just before it boils, stirring occasionally.

Meanwhile, beat eggs, yolks, sugar and salt with an electric mixer for about 3 to 5 minutes, or until the mixture is thick and pale yellow.

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Remove the pot of milk from the burner. Pour the hot milk in as thin and slow a stream as humanly possible into the egg-and-sugar mixture, whisking the mixture constantly. (I can’t emphasize enough how important it is to go slowly and keep stirring during this step, or you’ll end up with scrambled eggs.)

When the milk has been slowly and safely incorporated into the egg mixture and is well blended, pour the mixture into the same pot in which the milk was heated. Add the nutmeg.

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Place the pot on your stove top burner over low heat. Stir constantly until the mixture (let’s call it what it is now; a custard) begins to thicken slightly, and coats the back of a spoon, about 20 to 25 minutes, and reaches a temperature of between 140 to 160 degrees. (Here’s the custard finger test: Run your index finger over the back of the spoon. When the custard’s ready, your finger should leave a track. DO NOT allow the mixture to simmer. See scrambled eggs, above.)

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Pour the liquid custard through a fine sieve into a bowl to capture any scalded milk “skin” and/or eggy parts.

Whisk in the vanilla and cold half-and-half.

Pour the eggnog into the empty gallon milk carton for storage and/or any designated bottles.

Refrigerate at least 4 hours, preferably overnight. Garnish with grated nutmeg and, if desired, whipped cream.

Keeps chilled up to 3 days. (Or, may be frozen up to 2 weeks and thawed before serving.)

Makes about 30 to 35 servings.

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Doni Chamberlain

Independent online journalist Doni Chamberlain founded A News Cafe in 2007 with her son, Joe Domke. Chamberlain holds a Bachelor's Degree in journalism from CSU, Chico. She's an award-winning newspaper opinion columnist, feature and food writer recognized by the Associated Press, the California Newspaper Publishers Association and E.W. Scripps. She's been featured and quoted in The Wall Street Journal, The Guardian, The Washington Post, L.A. Times, Slate, Bloomberg News and on CNN, KQED and KPFA. She lives in Redding, California. © All rights reserved.

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