Even the most dyed-in-the-wool ardent Reddingites have to admit that it gets intolerably hot here in the summer. (You think it’s bad now? Imagine what it must have been like for the early settlers, clad in voluminous layers of heavy fabrics and garments with nary an air conditioner in sight.) Many stay indoors and turn the thermostat as low as their electricity budget will allow. Some head for the mountains to camp or to the lake to poach gently until well-done. But for Femme de Joie’s money, the best bet is to endure the 3 1/2 drive to Humboldt County and enjoy those cool ocean breezes (until she has to turn around for another 3 1/2 hour drive back home).
The Eureka Times-Standard reported in 2011 that the City of Arcata put a cap on the number of chain businesses allowed within city limits, a ruling some might find draconian but which M. de Joie finds utterly delightful. If one really needs to patronize a franchise or big box megastore, Eureka is a ten-minute drive away, but locally owned and operated businesses rule in the home of Humboldt State University. Yes, you can get a Big Mac in Arcata, but you have to drive all the way north to Valley West off Highway 101 to get it. Wouldn’t it be better to just stay close and enjoy some real food instead?
Golden Harvest Cafe has been serving up breakfast and lunch since at least the early 1980s (when Femme de Joie discovered it). Sean Balissa and Dorothy Myers bought it in 1998 with the intent of having a restaurant friendly to both vegans/vegetarians and carnivores. The lines out the door during Sunday brunch attest to their success in appealing to a wide range of tastes. M. de Joie and Amico del Signore have always been so stuffed after a breakfast that they have never tried the lunches.
Cajun potato cakes, $10.19, eggs $1.50 each
Golden Harvest features several variations of potato cakes for breakfast – a sort of potato hash with eggs atop. Cajun potato cakes were spicy-hot with cayenne-heavy Cajun seasoning, crisped all around, and savory with pepper jack cheese, olives, onions, and sausage (tofu sausage upon request). Definitely on the hot and spicy side, this was an unusual and delicious potato breakfast dish.
Golden Toast, 2 slices for $7.89
Remember the 1960s fad for cornflake-coated fried chicken? This variation on regular French toast beats that by a mile. Embedded crunchy cereal gives texture and sweetness to normally soft Texas toast slices.
California Benedict with avocado and tomatoes, Hollandaise and garlic cream sauce, $11.39
Sometimes you just have to have something unapologetically artery-clogging, but it better be worth it. The California Benedict fills that bill. We couldn’t decide whether the house-made Hollandaise was more delicious than the garlic cream sauce, and they were even more heavenly smooshed together on the plate. Crispy hash browns on the side were perfect with tender insides and crunchworthy outsides.
Chicken fried steak and eggs with biscuits and gravy, $13.99
This was quite simply the best chicken fried steak either M. de Joie or A. del Signore has ever tasted. Made with pounded New York steak and cooked until the batter was crisp but the interior medium-rare, tender and juicy, this was worth every calorie-packed bite. Sometimes gravy on the side is too salty, gummy, or otherwise a letdown, but Golden Harvest’s gravy was a perfect balance of creamy, savory, and peppery. Likewise, biscuits were tender and flaky.
Golden Harvest Cafe recently expanded to include a Eureka location, though it’s hoping too much to expect them to open a Redding location. The Eureka location presumably does not include the angry Arcata ghost who resides upstairs; it is rumored that he/she hates loud techno music and throws cutlery at the kitchen staff if the music is too loud. Femme de Joie did not hear or see said ghost so can’t provide independent confirmation, though she would definitely pay extra to experience this.
Everything we’ve tasted at Golden Harvest Cafe has been nothing less than wonderful, including coffee from Humboldt Bay Coffee Company (placed in a carafe on your table). Vegans and vegetarians are well-provided for – do not sneer at their house-made tofu bacon, as it is crisp and smoky with great bacony flavor. Though there are many fine places in Humboldt County to enjoy breakfast, Golden Harvest has to rank in the top three.
Golden Harvest Cafe, 1062 G Street, Arcata, CA 95521. 707-822-8962. Also 1707 Allard Avenue, Eureka, CA 95503, 707-442-1610. Open daily for breakfast and lunch 7:30 AM – 2:00 PM. Cash, cards, no checks. Kids’ menu. Vegans and vegetarians well-provided for. Beer and wine. Parking lot behind the building (access off 11th Street) or street parking ( feed the meter). Website at http://www.
