Wednesday food day: Hanukkah Latkes

Hanukkah began Tuesday at sundown. I know because Bruce told me.

He knew, not just because he’s Jewish, but because a friend called and wished Bruce happy Hanukkah.

Bruce doesn’t observe any of the Jewish holidays. But he’ll gladly eat the traditional food served on Jewish holidays.

Take latkes, for example. Bruce, who’s not a foodie (gasp, he eats to live, not the other way around), adores latkes. It’s one of the few foods from his childhood that evoke happy memories.

Beverly Greenberg, Bruce’s mother, was a talented artist. To her, every minute in the kitchen was a waste of time. To her, cooking was a chore, something to rush through so the kids could go play and she could go paint.

Bruce readily admits his mother wasn’t into cooking, with one exception: Latkes. He said his mother made absolutely the most delicious latkes. He couldn’t get enough of them, served as a side dish, accompanied by sour cream and apple sauce.

Here’s something else. Bruce said that all the women in his family were horrible cooks. Whenever he visited his Romanian grandmother, her house smelled of chicken and vegetables that had boiled and boiled and boiled and boiled. And his aunt had only one menu for company. In fact, the family joke was that if you went to that aunt’s house for dinner, you could count on roast beef and string greens.

His Russian grandmother was even worse. Bruce said the only thing she could make were reservations. (Ba-da bing.)

But like Beverly Greenberg, Bruce’s aunt and grandmothers also made delicious potato latkes.

It makes sense. Latkes are pretty simple. What are we talking except a food that’s predominantly grated potato, eggs and seasonings that’s fried in some oil.

“I come from a long line of terrible cooks, but even they could make latkes,” he said. “For really, really good cooking, the temple is where you went. The pot lucks had rugalach, and mondelbread and oh my God, the challah was to die for.”

Well, no food’s that good.

Except maybe latkes. With a little sour cream and apple sauce.

(Note from Doni: While classic potato latkes feature russet potatoes and onion, I adapted my recipe to include Yukon Gold potatoes and some snipped chives or finely chopped scallions.)

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Yukon Gold Latkes

Wash, peel and grate potatoes. Transfer the potatoes to an ice bath and let soak for about 10 to 15 minutes.

Remove potatoes from the ice bath. Using your hands, squeeze as much liquid from the potates as possible. Now pile the potato into a clean dish towel or piece of cheesecloth, and squeez even more water from the potatoes.

Dump the dried potatoes into a huge bowl. Set aside.

In another bowl, add the eggs, matzo meal, seasonings and chives. Mix well, then add the potato mixture.

Heat oil in a frying pan over medium high. Using a 1/4-cup measuring cup, drop some of the potato mixture into the hot oil. Flatten slightly with the back of a spoon to form a thin pancake about 4 inches in diameter.

Cook latkes for 2 to 3 minutes on each side until golden brown, being careful not to crowd them.

(Add more oil during frying, if needed.) Drain latkes on paper towels or parchment paper.

Serve warm with sour cream and apple sauce. Garnish with more chives or scallions.

Makes about 30 to 35 latkes.

Recipe by Doni Greenberg.

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