For no good reason (or, maybe for every good reason) I took an Amtrak train to Portland, Ore., this past weekend. I had such a good time, maybe I’ll try Portland, Maine, next time.
I like trains (and that’s also a great Fred Eaglesmith tune). To me, if you’ve got the time, it’s significantly less stressful than flying, driving or taking a bus.
This daylight view comes when you’re into Oregon.
It’s affordable as well. My round-trip ticket was around $110. When you compare that to the gas you’d spend, the wear on a vehicle and the energy required to drive, it seems like a good bargain.
The rub on leaving out of Redding, of course, is the time. The train departs the station around 3:30 a.m. and that’s a bit rough on one’s constitution no matter how you prepare for it.
It’s also unfortunate, because, unless there’s a full moon, you tend to miss some excellent scenery. I put my head on the window and watched the massive gray support beams of the Pit River Bridge go by, knowing Shasta Lake was far below.
I woke briefly during the stop in Dunsmuir and noticed the town was blanketed with tons of snow. It’s comforting to think that all that white stuff will eventually melt and drain into the upper Sacramento River and then Shasta Lake. What a boon the recent rains and snow have been for the region.
The train branches away from the I-5 corridor and travels through Klamath Falls, Ore. It then swings back to the northwest past Chemult. The section from Chemult through the Oakridge area toward Eugene was incredible.
I tried to write a poem about it. Here’s part of it:
White pine view’s a winter myth
Limbs are slumped and coated thick
I’m gliding through a perfect mountain landscape
Water on the window, but a clear day.
I’ve been hearing for years how amazing the Oakridge area is for mountain biking. Apparently there are an abundance of fantastic trails with stunning views. From what I was seeing from the train, I believe every word is true.
It takes about 12 hours one-way to reach Portland from Redding. The good news is it really doesn’t feel that long. It’s fairly easy to sleep on the train, and you can walk around, eat in the dining car ($7.75 for a pretty good burger), listen to your iPod and watch the world go by from the lounge/observation car.
It’s an interesting mix of people who ride the train, but most everyone seemed friendly (even the heavily tattooed, white boy, hiphop, lounge lizards).
Surprising as this may seem, Portland is actually a port city.
I stayed with some old friends from Redding who now live in (and love) Portland. One of the first stops we made was Apple Music Row , a series of three music stores — one of which included the most amazing vintage guitar collection I’d ever seen. Owner Kelly Howard’s endless array includes a 1956 Les Paul Goldtop and a ’54 Strat (first year of them), both in pristine condition. This is a must stop for any guitar geek who happens to visit Portland.
It’s the City of Roses (and a few lights).
In my quick jaunt around Portland, it seems residents have embraced vintage everything — clothing, furniture, films, signs, etc. Here’s a website devoted to all-things Portland vintage.
You might recall that Portland is also "The City of Roses," with it’s vast assortment of rose gardens. According to Wikipedia, it’s also the most environmentally friendly city in the U.S.
What else? Lot of people on bikes (even in the rain) and a great bike/walk path on both sides of the Willamette River through town. The population is around 600,000, but it somehow feels very manageable. (I realize I’m not the first person to sing Portland’s praises.)
After what seemed like entirely too short of a time period, I was back on that Amtrak train at 2:25 p.m. departing Portland. There was a moon on the way back down the Sacramento River Canyon.
This time I saw Shasta Lake and the surrounding mountains. Beautiful.
Woo woo!
