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Hiking Kurdistan — NOT!
Some of you might have heard about the trio of backpackers recently arrested for crossing into Iran from Kurdistan, Iraq. These seemingly educated Berkeley people stated that they were merely on a sightseeing expedition. My eyebrows rose to new heights when I read the interview of their companion, the fellow that stayed behind because he felt a cold feet coming on. He said they flew in the day before and asked locals where to go. Being anxious, his friends left at night, (please!) to find the trailhead. He also said that the area of interest to them wasn’t on their map (GPS anyone?). . .
*The interview is in the August 4 edition of the San Francisco Chronicle.
The would-be backpacker’s account of the trip is awkwardly suspicious; at least one is a journalist. It’s hard to imagine with the recent uprising in Iran that an educated person would violate any border in the Middle East. I mean, come on. No one but the local shepherds hikes in Iraq. Estimates are that Iraq has 15+ million land mines.
For the sake of safety, some locations and some identities are not revealed.
Besides, the Pesh Merga, (like this nice man above) the Asa’Ish Police, and the National Guard, all scout the roads and trails for unwanted intruders. In addition, with the infamous PKK in the mountain ranges, the sighting of an unknown person wandering the outskirts of normal civilization quickly brings out the rocket launchers. No questions asked! Although, no one in his or her right mind would ever consider hiking Iraq, I found it lovely and inviting. It is the most interesting place I have ever visited and the people even more friendly then the Tico’s of Costa Rico.
Small villages set up their own style of Neighborhood Watch. You can’t go anywhere without someone knowing you are in their territory, at which point, they harass you and want to know what you’re doing in the neighborhood:
These guys are everywhere! They come out of the woodwork and drag you into their huts, torturing you with food and chai tea.
As I tour Kurdistan, adults pat their chests with flat hands, blessing me for our American presence. Many plea for the American’s to stay. I visited most of Kurdistan, from the Turkish border south to the Mosul valley. It was too dangerous to drive into Mosul, but I did come within sight of it. A Christian village, centuries old, sits in the foothills of the valley:
University students were the most outgoing, asking where I lived. When I replied “California”, they shrieked and shouted “Hollywood!” These young women are Yisidi’s. This picture was taken at their temple community of Lalish. Usually banned to strangers, I was invited because it is so rare to have an American woman visit them. I was so honored; very few outsiders have seen the inside of these temple walls.
If you look closely, we are all barefoot; it is tradition when walking the temple grounds. The little guy on the left followed me the entire visit. The students proceeded to invite my escorts and me to lunch.
We ate on the roof of a cottage overlooking the temple grounds while they asked us a thousand questions in English! They love Americans! Most of the children in Iraq start learning English in the third grade. They repeatedly asked if we could take them to America.
On the drive back, our interpreter stopped the car. I inquired about the water coming down the rock cliff. He said, “It’s not water, it’s oil”.
And, it would be centuries before this region runs out of oil. Don’t believe the media on this, it is everywhere! This is a river of oil:
I saw entire villages that were bulldozed by Sadaam (with people still in them). This town is near the Turkish border. Sadaam had a palace, much like Hitler’s Tea house, in the mountains seen in the right side of the photo.
The countryside possesses a variety of landscapes where Muslims and Christians live side by side.
The people are working hard to improve their standard of living and rebuild the infrastructure destroyed by Sadaam and the war. This concrete crew was on their way to work:
While everyone walks around with a cell phone, some things are still done the old-fashioned way, like propane deliveries. . .
and power grids.
The cities have the most interesting shopping districts, from traditional bazaars, to the more contemporary shops like the one below, where I purchased my Tabriz vegetable bag/purse.
All I can say is that I would go back to Iraq in a hot second! I love the people, the culture and the scenery. I mean, who wouldn’t like a place like this. I instantly had friends who would do anything for me.
I just wouldn’t backpack!
Diana Sears lives in Redding and has traveled extensively in the Middle East.
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nice story…
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Great photos! I spent a month in Sulaimaniya this spring, and left with similar impressions. What a great place! When can I go back? I was there to teach English at a small private school, but had to leave early because I got sick. I had just come from Amman where I had a sense of structural decay, but Sulaimaniya seemed to be full of construction. The fancy hospital where I spent a few days had older equipment, but very competent staff. Numerous people stopped in to say hello to the American, and to say how much they like Americans and want us to stick around.
I think people in the know are afraid to repeat what you said about the hikers, but I totally agree on that one too. In fact, it was the title of your blog post that caught my attention. I have posted a couple of entries to my blog relating to my trip (probably in June/July), and will eventually post another, as well as posting a bunch of photos of Sulaimaniya to a related gallery that I just set up.
My blog address is http://www.papillonweb.net/blog.
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nice story, Diana, you are welcomed to kurdistan any time you want, it will be nice to come and see Erbil and sulaimaniya too. for any help and question this is my e-mail (hangawali@yahoo.com).
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I am Kurd and live in New York.
I wanna go to my Kurdistan some day.
Beautiful Land!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!
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Hey, you are always welcome in Kurdistan. Kurds have forever been known for their graciousness to guests and this is a tradition that we will honour to everyone.
I hope that many more like you take the trip to Kurdistan and tell the world of the wonders of the “Other Iraq”, we are working hard to make dreams happen and while it may be a bumpy ride, we are getting there.
Also, if I may..I would suggest going back in Newroz which is right around the Easter time, that is when the Kurds celebrate new years and the weather is just absolutely amazing.
Regards
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Dear Diana,
Your impression is similar to what most people come back with from Kurdistan.
However I have to point out that the photo you have of the grid is definitely not Kurdistan, but appears to be in India (check out the rickshaws and the letters on the shop signs). I suspect the photo with donkey may also not be of Kurdistan from the hats and the dress.
Finally the last photo is also doesn’t appear to be in Kurdistan with the hooded guy behind a machine gun on the back of the pick up truck. This would probably be closer to Mosul or Baghdad in winter time. The pick up truck is too old for Kurdistan Police and the colors are wrong, the policeman’s (hooded guy on the truck) uniform is wrong, the military uniforms are’ similar to any of the security forces in Kurdistan and no one rides around on machine gun trucks, wearing hoods in Kurdistan.
You might have mixed up some of the photos with other trips you may have taken. People may get the wrong impression of Kurdistan with the above mixed up photos.
All the best and good luck on your future trips. And by the way, as a representative of the American people, well done America! At least one place has gratefully chosen to benefit from Americas efforts to make the world a better and safer place to live. Most others who have rejected America’s hand are ungrateful, ignorant losers.
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Hello Diana
I’m from Alberta Canada and I love that you visited Kurdistan. It is a beautiful place and the people are very kind and hospitable. Thank you for your sweet words about my country. god bless you and your family.
kurdishrepublic.com
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Thanks for your nice story. you are welcome to Kurdistan any time and be sure that Kurdish people are the closest friends in real sense with Americans.
waiting to come back to our land, Kurdistan.
Ako
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hi friend I cant speck English god sore I love kurdistan vary I love all kurd
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hi that was a great story thats kurdistan in one of the best places in the world and it is improving all the time and your welcome to kurdistan any time.
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It is very nice story. For next visit let us know, May be I can show you more places.
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Unfortunately I believe you’ve been misinformed about the hiking situation in Kurdistan. While I acknowledge the positivity in the way you embrace the Iraqi culture, you clearly made little effort to understand the international perspective of such a cultured region. To quickly refute your claims that only sheppards belong hiking in Iraq, please read Mark Leevan’s article on examiner.com about hiking in Kurdistan. This will surely clear up any misconceptions one might understandably have when considering the prospect of hiking in Iraq. What’s more, these individuals were well-experienced hikers (probably more of the thrill seeking type; not much different from skydivers and alligator wrestlers). Leevan will also help clear up how easily it would be for an adventurous hiker to cross into Iran.
And one last point I’d like to make is your reference to one of the hiker’s background in journalism, as if that is at all indicative of clandestine operations in the middle east. This is a simple “guilt by association,” and should be easily dismissed as flawed logic. If this were a sound argument, then one shouldn’t be discredited for believing that American involvement in Iraq is entirely petroleum-based simply because President Bush is involved in the oil industry. There are millions of journalists worldwide. This is just one who enjoys hiking. Also, keep in mind that two of the three were living in nearby Syria as well, so it really wasn’t very strange for them to be in the region. Just keeping you honest. Thanks.
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yes i now that picturs realy life in kurdistan …………….i like come to hear to see the good man ,woman ,boy………?
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